How many barns have you been to in your life? How many of them needed a little something extra?
If you're like me, I've been in barns that range from a glorified chicken coop to a multi-million dollar estate. I've realized that it doesn't really matter what your barn looks like, so long as it works for you. I'm not an architect, and I don't proclaim to be "professional" at this by any means, but here are a list of things that I have found truly helpful:
Stall Design - Build stalls that have 12x16 runs attached to them. That way, they can go in, out and socialize throughout the day. We have these at the barn that I am in now - I just can't imagine not always having them!
Have at least one stall that is large enough to accomodate a mare and foal. Even if you do not plan on breeding, the stall can accomodate a sick or injured horse or a large horse that needs more room.
Take the time to install a set of crossties for every stall in your barn. They make quick work of administering medications/ giving injections/ treating wounds and can be cheaply made with some eye screws, poly rope and snaps.
Take the time to purchase name plates for each horse's stall. (If you have many horses coming and going, number the stalls) In case of emergency, every horse is easily identified - it eliminates confusion of "3rd stall on the left"
If you are installing automatic waterers, ensure that they are easily cleaned. Water meters can be installed by a plumber so that you can monitor the amount of water your horse drinks. If sticking with the traditional method of watering, ensure that your buckets are easily filled by an outside hose. I have always preferred barns that had multiple sources of water located throughout the barn. A main waterline running above the stalls with a dropdown pipe/on off switch for each stall works great, too.
When installing feed buckets, I have always made sure that neighbors don't eat at the same corner. (ie - put all feed buckets on the left or all on the right) It takes a little extra time to feed, but it stops them from kicking the walls "at their neighbor"
A stall with no windows is a hot stall. Ensure that there is a large window that when opened, provides adequate air-flow. I prefer barns that have the front side "open" with bars or horse friendly mesh in front - at least halfway. I have found that stalls that have windows that allow horses to "see their neighbor" are actually more trouble than they are worth.
If you have horses that are notorious for rubbing their tails, consider putting in a tail rail in your stalls. A 2x12 placed horizontally against the wall will prevent rubbing. (it will also take away a foot of your stall on all sides, so plan accordingly)
Lighting - It is wise to install both a set of lights that will light up the whole barn, and lights for each individual stall.
Keep in mind that lights should have protective covers on them to prevent dust, bugs and cobwebs from interfering with the connection and possibly starting a fire - the same goes with electrical outlets.
Also, install motion activated flood lights on every corner of your barn and perhaps a light post in the parking/trailer area.
Ventilation - Tall, tall ceilings. Here in the south, it's not the cold that gets you - it's the heat! A barn sould be built with at least 15-20 feet of clearance over the stalls to promote air-flow.
Fans/Vents at the ends of your barn will also increase air-flow. Many commerical livestock supply stores offer giant ceiling fans - depending on the size of your barn, you can purchase a ceiling fan that is up to 15 feet in diameter - this promotes good air circulation and also will help keep down on those pesky flies!
Shavings - An area at least the size of two stalls (or a stall and a run) should be devoted to covered shavings storage. The storage should be easily accessed from both inside and outside of the barn.
I prefer the shavings opening to the outsite be an automatic metal roll up door- at least 4 feet wider than the truck is!
Also, for what it's worth, sawdust is cheaper than shavings ($80 per load compared to $250+) and it is more absorbent, which makes it last longer wheelbarrow for wheelbarrow.
Feed Room - make sure that you have enough space in your feed room to store 2 weeks worth of grain and supplements.
Make sure that you have storage - old bookcases work great, or you can install cabinets with a counter. Storage helps allieviate mountains of supplement buckets just sitting around.
A sink works great in the feed room - for soaking grain or preparing medications.
A must for the feed room is a small refridgerator, so that you can store your medications or drinks. Also, don't forget to purchase a sharps container for the collection of used needles - these are only a couple of dollars from a local pharmacy, such as Walgreens.
For storing open bags of grain, I reccommend metal trash cans over plastic storage containers.
A big convienience in the feed room is a door that opens up to the outside. Personally, I use another automatic roll-up door so that the feed truck can back right into where they need to be - and stay out of your barn!
Have a master list of each horse's diet - and keep it updated. In an emergency situation, anyone could come in and feed or hay.
Stall Footing - I don't like dirt floors. They just can't hold up to the rigors of having a horse on them. I do like concrete floors (before you gasp, keep on reading). Our floors are concrete - with thick (1 3/4 inch) mats on top. I prefer the smaller mats (4x6) to the larger ones (12x12 or bigger) because they are easier to move when it's time to disinfect. The mats are covered with 6 inches of sawdust - we have not had an issue with the floor yet - and it stays consistent - with no holes or bumps.
Aisle Footing - depending on your discipline, you may or may not ride in the aisle of your barn. For those who do, I highly reccommend HogsFuel, or wood chips. Many companies that trim trees off of powerlines will gladly give you their wood chips for free. The woodchips are small enough to not cause any sort of injury, but big enough to where they aren't dusty - I hate dusty barns!!!
If you don't ride in the aisle of your barn, I would recommend a concrete floor with recessed rubber mats; that is, have a 1 inch "lip" around the entire aisle way, so that when the mats are laid in, they are flush with the edges of the aisle.
Wash Racks - Hot and cold water are a must - also ensure that you have plenty of dry storage for shampoo, conditioner, clippers, etc.
I have found that if they are inside and require a drain, most wash racks will clog up. If you would like an indoor wash rack, install a "strainer" or a filter that will catch the hair, dirt, and other debris that will try to make it's way down the drain.
Don't forget mats for the washrack
Make sure you have multiple electrical outlets (with covers), many lights, and a trashcan in the washrack.
For washing horses, I prefer a boom sprayer. They are just like the ones you wash your car with, and allow you to wash your horse all over without having to worry about the hose getting kinked, stepped on, or twisted around a leg (yours or the horse's!)
Visitors - Farriers and Vets appreciate a place where they can work. If a separate "bay" is not available, ensure that one of your washracks is the size of a normal stall so that the farrier and vet can easily work around your horse. It is also advisable to have the back of the bay open up, so that the farrier and vet can easily back up to the barn. Install a ceiling fan above this bay and ensure there are plenty of covered electrical outlets, and a water spigot.
Misc. In barn - Devote a space in your barn for muck forks, wheelbarrows, brooms, dusters, hardware (hammers, screwdrivers, nails, screws, fence cutters, etc).
Leaf blowers are ok for clearing barn aisles, but create a lot of airborne dust as they clean. There are products on the market that are barn vacuums - they collect anything in their path without throwing dust into the air.
Tin roofs are less expensive than shingled roofs, but make a lot of noise. Insulate your tin roof for happier horses during storms.
Tack Room - It is my experience that a separate tack and feed room work best. In the tack room, ensure that you have plenty of storage for blankets. I have found that a bookcase with "cubby holes" works really well, as do utility storage shelves, with one shelf dedicated to one horse.
After spring cleaning, place your blankets in a clear blanket bag, or wrap with seran wrap to prevent dust and rodent infestation.
Place your saddle racks about 5-5.5 feet above the ground. This way, you allow storage for trunks and bridles underneath.
Always install more bridle holders than you think you will need to accomodate lunging equipment, etc.
If you have the need, install a peg board to hold bits. You can arrange the hooks to easily hold any assortment of bits.
Whip holders can be made by screwing a piece of PVC pipe into the wall, then placing whips inside of the pipe handle down.
If you want a washer and dryer in your barn, install it here.
Also, allow room for a window in your tack room. It will help cut down on the need to turn on the lights, and also cut down on mold.
Install a tack hook from the ceiling - this has many uses from holding tack as you clean it, to helping dry out blankets that are wet.
Outside the Barn - ensure that you have allowed a space to turn around and park your trailer. Cover it if you want to - it will help it last longer. Medium size gravel will keep mud off of your trailer and also keep it from sinking into the grass (or mud) If you border the parking area with railroad ties, the gravel will last longer.
Allow parking space for visitors. While you may or may not plan on having a few friends over, it is nice to have the space for them to park if and when they drop by for a visit.
As stated before, have proper outdoor lighting - it really helps when coming home late from a show!
Ensure you have an outside water spigot or two
I prefer hay storage outside of the barn. It also helps reduce insurance costs in many cases. Ensure that you have knives (or scissors) to cut open the bales, a trashcan for all of the strings, and a broom to sweep up the hay that falls out of the bales. Our floor is concrete, which makes it really easy to take a hose to, or a leaf blower when it comes time to clean out for the next delivery.
I hate manure piles. Therefore, I would recommend building a place where a roll-off dumpster can be placed for manure deposit. If built at an angle, water and urine drain off. Concrete the floor so that the dumpster does not get stuck! If built into the ground, you can have a natural ramp so that dumping the manure is easy.
During rainy weather, or a muddy season, nothing works quite like a dry lot. 24x48 small paddock graded with M-10 or hogsfuel as footing helps keep your pastures from becoming mud pits!
Surely I am forgetting something, so I'll update this as I remember things. Take Care and good luck!
kickshaw